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Wednesday, 10 October 2012

On the road in New Mexico - north towards Santa Fe

On Sunday we set out from Alto northwards towards Santa Fe.  It was the 3rd long car journey we’d made, and the second with Alan who is the sole chauffeur for our whole trip.  He is excellent at it too, taking everything with equanimity and finding his way with little difficulty.

Our experience of American roads contrasts with French or English – generally rather lower speed limits, but the lane discipline is odd.  Although you are supposed to keep right, almost everyone drives in the outside of 2 lanes or the middle lane of 3, so people frequently pass you on the inside.  Road names at intersections in towns are helpful in showing you the road you’re crossing, but until you are used to that you may think it’s the one you are going along, which is confusing to say the least.  And signs are almost all in words rather than symbols, which sometimes means reading a lot rather fast!
We in Europe often have a stereotyped impression of Americans driving very large cars.  Well, where we’ve been it is true.  Fuel is a third of the price it is in the UK or France, and of course distances are greater, so a secure and comfortable ride is a priority.  We are travelling in a GMC Yukon which is high and wide, with lots of room for luggage, and you can see all around you easily.  It is good for our journeys of several hundred miles, and it suits Alan’s tall frame which would find it difficult to cram into many of our smaller cars.  On the other hand, since even going between two shops on a high street can involve driving and (as at home) short journeys for shopping and school runs are a high proportion of journeys, the prevalence of gas guzzling giants still seems hopelessly anti-ecological.  We have seen a few Smart cars in Austin and in Santa Fe, but very few!

More photos of our journey north are here.   We descended from the chilly cloud cover of the mountains around Ruidoso and Alto towards the plains early on Sunday morning, and as usual Barbara and Alan had planned a number of really interesting stops en route.  The first was literally a black contrast to the White Sands – the Valley of Fire or Malpais, an area of lava flow originating in one small crater that seems like a pimple on the horizon to the right, near the little almost ghost town of Carrizozo.
 
Our two other visits as we continued north towards Santa Fe were to two of the three ancient Salinas pueblos (indigenous Indian villages) which thrived for a time trading salt from the nearby salt pans, and which later became Spanish/Mexican Christian mission stations, on high plains at an altitude nearly as great as our mountain pause in Alto – over 2000 metres.  Through most of our trip we have been at such altitudes, and in the bright sunlight the light and colour and sparkling air have been exhilarating even if the dryness has meant drinking more water than we might usually.  Photos of our twovisits to Gran Quivira and Quarai (where the huge cathedral church was built in traditional adobe by women) are here.
The roads were straight and long, with sudden right angle bends round the edge of ranch properties every 10, 20, 30 miles, until we reached the Manzano mountains to the west and wound along the base, seeing the Santa Fe Sangre de Cristo mountains approaching to the north east.  We arrived in Santa Fe in late afternoon, settled into our rather basic motel (probably a 60s construction, with internet access to match.  I booked this, and should probably have gone for a better model!) and had time to go into town and wander round in the evening light.  First impressions very surprising – there are very few buildings over 3 stories, so the mountains dominate to the east and the adobe style is still very prominent in the buildings.  Exploration to follow…

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About Me

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I retired to Lunel in the Languedoc region of southern France with my wife Mary and our Norfolk Terrier Trudy in late 2006. I had worked in the British voluntary sector for 25 years. We are proud parents of 3 sons, and we have 3 grandchildren.